I think I mentioned that Karolina and the Italians left without me for the Alps with the plan that they would email or call with a place I should meet them today. Well, she did -- she said lunch time at Bled's city center. I emailed back and said 12 noon, and she emailed back again and said OK.
The problem is that this isn't really a city, so it was not at all obvious to me where the city center is. I asked at tourist info and they said the adjacent shopping center (eww). So, I send her another email and a text to her mobile phone (via the web) saying that that was where I was. I waited 30 minutes. Then I thought maybe she's waiting at the bus station. So, I walked over there. No Karolina or Italians in sight. I left a note on the wall saying I would continue to wait at the city center until 1:30. I did, and when no one came, I went to the Youth Hostel and checked myself in.
I should also mention that the "city center" and the bus station are about 500 m from each other, up a hill, and my bag is very heavy. The Youth Hostel is also up a hill. So, by the time I arrived here I was completely drenched in sweat, despite that fact that we are in the mountains and it is overcast.
So, I am going for a swim in a minute. Bled Lake is lovely, but I can see why Brian told me not to bother coming here. The town is a bit ugly and modern, and very small. There's a castle above the lake and lots of trees all around (I wasn't expecting so many trees for some reason). There's also a church that reflects nicely in the water.
Anyway, the plan for tomorrow is to go to another, more remote place (tho still in my Lonely Planet Europe) where nothing is going on except outdoor activies and relaxation. Karolina and the Italians may even be there.
Sunday, July 31, 2005
Saturday, July 30, 2005
Belongingness and Para-Social Relationships
I found this on Eric's blog:
Cheers: Belongingness and Para-Social Relationships
http://www.lifewithalacrity.com/2005/07/cheers_belongin.html
This is how I used to feel about Friends before Monica and Chandler deserted me and moved to the 'burbs... um... I mean before the show ended.
Cheers: Belongingness and Para-Social Relationships
http://www.lifewithalacrity.com/2005/07/cheers_belongin.html
This is how I used to feel about Friends before Monica and Chandler deserted me and moved to the 'burbs... um... I mean before the show ended.
Random notes from TCFC V, part 1
Protecting bicycle rickshaws in Bangladesh, Debra Effroymson: The govt protects the right to work, but not of rickshaw drivers.
What makes a city civilized is not the car infrastructure (Diaz of Bogota).
conferencebike.come -- a bike for up to 7 riders
300 cities worldwide celebrate Critical Mass.
Sept 2004 NYC Critical Mass: gross human rights abuses. This was the first I had heard about this response of the police (and the Mayor) to the Republican National Convention. Policing = loss of Democracy
Groninggen, a bicycle city (Cor van der Klaaw):
bicycles are just like water, they move downhill, always take the shortest path, and don't like to stop even at red lights.
They created a space for the bicyclists to wait in front of the cars at the light so that they don't have to smell the exhaust and so that they can go faster.
The city provides buses for that carry bicyclists for when the wind is not going in your favor. You can ride back with the wind at your back.
"about 2 people are killed on the streets each year, but most of them are old people" ...um, as if that makes a difference???
Berlin (Michael Cramer):
Public transportation must be attractive to be sustainable.
Signal timing would save 30%.
Debrecen, Hungary (Attila Nagy and Laszlo Varga):
Need fierce leadership of the Mayor.
Copenhagen, bicycle city (Lars Gemzoe):
Bicycle city = soft city, easier for families
City bikes -- first 2 times they just disappeared, coin return and now it works; One was found at NYC Penn Station
It is a story of a change in culture, now the central space has more people, creates culture, Danes have "become Italian" (people looking at other people), people picnic, there are dance fests and jazz fests, people start to do things outside.
Street musicians -- the law is no more than 1 hour each place and no more than 3 per area bc the neighbors complain.
bicycle program developed in response to carfee street program (pedestrianized center).
0.5 M passengers lost from the public transport system in response to the bicycle program, but it's not a problem, it's a solution.
4X more public space = 4X more public activity, more public life, increase in sidewalk cafes, people stay out later and longer
the summer season is extended = cafes provide heaters and blankets to their customers
Bicycle traffic just surpassed car traffic.
the city created a beach at a vacant harbor, cleaned the water, now people swim there, in the city center
necessary activities, optional activies, active urban activies
collecting data on pedestrians makes them visable to the city government.
What makes a city civilized is not the car infrastructure (Diaz of Bogota).
conferencebike.come -- a bike for up to 7 riders
300 cities worldwide celebrate Critical Mass.
Sept 2004 NYC Critical Mass: gross human rights abuses. This was the first I had heard about this response of the police (and the Mayor) to the Republican National Convention. Policing = loss of Democracy
Groninggen, a bicycle city (Cor van der Klaaw):
bicycles are just like water, they move downhill, always take the shortest path, and don't like to stop even at red lights.
They created a space for the bicyclists to wait in front of the cars at the light so that they don't have to smell the exhaust and so that they can go faster.
The city provides buses for that carry bicyclists for when the wind is not going in your favor. You can ride back with the wind at your back.
"about 2 people are killed on the streets each year, but most of them are old people" ...um, as if that makes a difference???
Berlin (Michael Cramer):
Public transportation must be attractive to be sustainable.
Signal timing would save 30%.
Debrecen, Hungary (Attila Nagy and Laszlo Varga):
Need fierce leadership of the Mayor.
Copenhagen, bicycle city (Lars Gemzoe):
Bicycle city = soft city, easier for families
City bikes -- first 2 times they just disappeared, coin return and now it works; One was found at NYC Penn Station
It is a story of a change in culture, now the central space has more people, creates culture, Danes have "become Italian" (people looking at other people), people picnic, there are dance fests and jazz fests, people start to do things outside.
Street musicians -- the law is no more than 1 hour each place and no more than 3 per area bc the neighbors complain.
bicycle program developed in response to carfee street program (pedestrianized center).
0.5 M passengers lost from the public transport system in response to the bicycle program, but it's not a problem, it's a solution.
4X more public space = 4X more public activity, more public life, increase in sidewalk cafes, people stay out later and longer
the summer season is extended = cafes provide heaters and blankets to their customers
Bicycle traffic just surpassed car traffic.
the city created a beach at a vacant harbor, cleaned the water, now people swim there, in the city center
necessary activities, optional activies, active urban activies
collecting data on pedestrians makes them visable to the city government.
More stories
Before I start typing up my notes from the conference, I have a few stories to tell. When Kaori and I finally got dinner last night, there was time to ask personal questions. She had mentioned that her boyfriend had lent her this 1 gig memory card for her camera. So, I asked about him. She hemmed and haaed for a bit then came out and said it "well, he's married" and to justify her behavior she later said "before we started our relationship, I heard him say that he hadn't seen his wife in 3 days." I asked her if this was common in Japan, and she said yes, it is. Of course, we have encountered infidelity in Japan in our family before, and this was the theory, but here, I have further, if anecdotal, evidence.
The day we rode bikes in the park in Budapest, I shared my fake SUV with a guy from Montreal called Francois. He told me about one time his train was leaving at like 5 AM. So, he decided to save money on a hostel bed and stay up all night in a bar until it was time to catch the train. But the bar closed at 2, and these people he was talking with said, oh yes, we know an all night bar where we can keep hanging out until you catch your train. He said the new place was really seedy, and he should have known to leave. But they gave him a cup of coffee and he work up 14 hours later at the police station with nothing but the clothes on his back and, miraculously, his passport.
They had dumped him at the train station unconscious and the police had picked him up. He felt really horrible and groggy after he finally woke up but the police (who did not speak English or French) told him that he couldn't get a hostel bed bc he had no money and was all dirty. Anyway, eventually, some guy invited him home and he slept there for a couple days until he felt better.
His other traveling misadventure happened in South America. He was there for an environmental conference and was riding the bus when a guy attempted to mug him at gun point. He was going to cooperate, but the guy slipped and shot him in the mouth instead. The bullet is still in Francois's neck, but at the time he had to be airlifted back to the states. Before they took him back, he got a lot of media coverage bc this country was trying to promote themselves as a tourist destination for people from the States. He used that opportunity to get coverage for his environmentalist agenda, which makes him kind of a celebrity even now.
The day we rode bikes in the park in Budapest, I shared my fake SUV with a guy from Montreal called Francois. He told me about one time his train was leaving at like 5 AM. So, he decided to save money on a hostel bed and stay up all night in a bar until it was time to catch the train. But the bar closed at 2, and these people he was talking with said, oh yes, we know an all night bar where we can keep hanging out until you catch your train. He said the new place was really seedy, and he should have known to leave. But they gave him a cup of coffee and he work up 14 hours later at the police station with nothing but the clothes on his back and, miraculously, his passport.
They had dumped him at the train station unconscious and the police had picked him up. He felt really horrible and groggy after he finally woke up but the police (who did not speak English or French) told him that he couldn't get a hostel bed bc he had no money and was all dirty. Anyway, eventually, some guy invited him home and he slept there for a couple days until he felt better.
His other traveling misadventure happened in South America. He was there for an environmental conference and was riding the bus when a guy attempted to mug him at gun point. He was going to cooperate, but the guy slipped and shot him in the mouth instead. The bullet is still in Francois's neck, but at the time he had to be airlifted back to the states. Before they took him back, he got a lot of media coverage bc this country was trying to promote themselves as a tourist destination for people from the States. He used that opportunity to get coverage for his environmentalist agenda, which makes him kind of a celebrity even now.
Last day in Ljubljana
If all goes as planned, today will be my last day in Ljubljana. Karoleana went to Bled this morning with some Italian guys we met last night, and the plan is for me to meet her there tomorrow morning (or early afternoon). After I wrote my last blog last night, I ran into her at the computers. She said "Are you tiwed?" and I wasn't. So, at 1 AM, we went for a drink with the Italian guys who also happened to be using the computers at that time. Their names are Mario and Bruno.
Here's something I have been wondering about: You know how dog breeds each have their own personality? Do you think it's the same for people? I ask because Karoleana resembles both Tracey and Juliette in different ways, and she has a sort of crazy, fun-loving personality like they do as well. Likewise, I have a string of ex-boyfriend who looked kind of alike, and acted kind of alike too. I have noticed that all of Alison's best female friends have really pretty brown eyes (I flatter myself) and dark hair too, and many of my good friends, in a similar kind of way, are blond. I dunno. I think in a way you see similarities that you want to see. I remember Grayson saying that he wanted to do his thesis to prove that "what is beautiful is good", but you know that doesn't really make any sense.
So, what I hadn't noticed that Karoleana showed me was that there was a contraption on the center square making it rain there. In this incredibly hot weather, that is like the coolest thing ever. When we first arrived at it, we danced around and sang "Singing in the Rain" (until Bruno pulled his back out). It's still going now, and I noticed there's this guy wearing just shorts who has been standing in for at least 3 hours (working on his tan?). However, it also actually rained a moment ago.
We got drinks at a Mexican restaurant (of which there are many in Ljubljana -- go figure) and got to bed about 3 AM, and in the morning I decided I was just not ready to run off to Bled with them. Maybe that was a mistake. Hopefully I can meet up with her tomorrow (she's supposed to call with her coordinates), bc she doesn't seem to suck that much so far. :-)
Today I planned to 1) buy some blueberries at the farmers' market, 2) go to the National Gallery and see this exhibit on Slovenian Impressionist painters, and 3) finally do the boat tour. I would also like to take the time to completely catch up on the blog.
Along with the blueberries, I also got some meat burek, which is a local food that vaguely resembles pizza but greasier and with flaky crust all the way around. I am big fan of flaky crust, but not of greasiness. It was good, but I am not sure I need to have another one. While I ate it at this outdoor picnic table behind the food stall this beggar woman approached me with her 2 small children and talked to me in Slovenian for literally like 10 minutes before giving up.
Since I couldn't possibly have slept more than 5 hours last night, I took a long nap this afternoon before going to the National Gallery. The exhibition is called "Color, light, empathy" so you can see why I was attracted to that. There weren't a lot of paintings, but they were pretty good. It mostly focused on the school of this guy named Anton Ažbe, who influenced many famous painters of the early 20th Century but of whose work very little remains. I think that's an interesting idea -- that someone could be a great artist by their influence without people having any complete knowledge of what his work actually looked like other than the reviews and references to it in other artists' work. I also breezed thru the permanent collections, and I think they should focus on collecting Slovenian art. Since you asked.
And that brings us to the present moment. I'll do another entry catching up of the conference.
Here's something I have been wondering about: You know how dog breeds each have their own personality? Do you think it's the same for people? I ask because Karoleana resembles both Tracey and Juliette in different ways, and she has a sort of crazy, fun-loving personality like they do as well. Likewise, I have a string of ex-boyfriend who looked kind of alike, and acted kind of alike too. I have noticed that all of Alison's best female friends have really pretty brown eyes (I flatter myself) and dark hair too, and many of my good friends, in a similar kind of way, are blond. I dunno. I think in a way you see similarities that you want to see. I remember Grayson saying that he wanted to do his thesis to prove that "what is beautiful is good", but you know that doesn't really make any sense.
So, what I hadn't noticed that Karoleana showed me was that there was a contraption on the center square making it rain there. In this incredibly hot weather, that is like the coolest thing ever. When we first arrived at it, we danced around and sang "Singing in the Rain" (until Bruno pulled his back out). It's still going now, and I noticed there's this guy wearing just shorts who has been standing in for at least 3 hours (working on his tan?). However, it also actually rained a moment ago.
We got drinks at a Mexican restaurant (of which there are many in Ljubljana -- go figure) and got to bed about 3 AM, and in the morning I decided I was just not ready to run off to Bled with them. Maybe that was a mistake. Hopefully I can meet up with her tomorrow (she's supposed to call with her coordinates), bc she doesn't seem to suck that much so far. :-)
Today I planned to 1) buy some blueberries at the farmers' market, 2) go to the National Gallery and see this exhibit on Slovenian Impressionist painters, and 3) finally do the boat tour. I would also like to take the time to completely catch up on the blog.
Along with the blueberries, I also got some meat burek, which is a local food that vaguely resembles pizza but greasier and with flaky crust all the way around. I am big fan of flaky crust, but not of greasiness. It was good, but I am not sure I need to have another one. While I ate it at this outdoor picnic table behind the food stall this beggar woman approached me with her 2 small children and talked to me in Slovenian for literally like 10 minutes before giving up.
Since I couldn't possibly have slept more than 5 hours last night, I took a long nap this afternoon before going to the National Gallery. The exhibition is called "Color, light, empathy" so you can see why I was attracted to that. There weren't a lot of paintings, but they were pretty good. It mostly focused on the school of this guy named Anton Ažbe, who influenced many famous painters of the early 20th Century but of whose work very little remains. I think that's an interesting idea -- that someone could be a great artist by their influence without people having any complete knowledge of what his work actually looked like other than the reviews and references to it in other artists' work. I also breezed thru the permanent collections, and I think they should focus on collecting Slovenian art. Since you asked.
And that brings us to the present moment. I'll do another entry catching up of the conference.
Friday, July 29, 2005
Most people suck
I've been thinking more about what I wrote earlier, and I went out and listened to some music, had some ice cream, drank some free wine. Yes, I crashed a party and had some lovely wine for free just like a gallery opening, which I think it was, except on the street. So, you might call this drunk blogging (in the spirit of drunk dialing).
But I don't actually feel drunk. I had one glass of wine earlier (which I mentioned) and Kaori said "aren't you drunk after a glass of wine." and I said "no, I am an Anglo-Saxon, and we can drink forever and never get drunk." Of course, then I had to explain what an Anglo-Saxon is.
Which leads me to my main point: Most people suck most of the time. Some people suck only some of the time. I even think I suck some of the time. And since I always like to try to learn from these kinds of observations, I think the lesson is to hang on to those people who hardly suck at all (you know who you are, I hope).
Our experience with the waiter made me think of lessons on abusive relationships. Maybe "abusive" is too strong a word, but I think I mean relationships where there is a struggle with the power dynamic. They just don't work, whether it is with a waiter, a family member, a friend or a partner. Yet, in my unfortunate experience with this kind of thing, the other person is always shocked and upset when I take that necessary step back. I really don't think the waiter expected us to leave, bc he was trying to bully us into ordering, which we had fully intended to do bf he went off on us, even after it was clear that the relationship didn't work. Maybe the easy way for him to think about it was that we were "bad people" trying to take advantage of him and the restaurant, but you know that that was not the case.
On another matter all together, I was trying to get my key at the reception this afternoon and I noticed the DOB on the passport of someone checking in. He was born in 1987, and I was totally shocked to realize that I am almost old enough to be the mother of the people I sleep next to in this hostel. Maybe even the English girls I met on the train and later ate dinner with the night I arrived. This makes me think of a poem that Eric sent me the link to the other day:
http://www.livejournal.com/users/dpolicar/82758.html
Maybe it's finally time for me to, well, not act my age, but start acting like a grown up, or something. I don't know what that will be but, "it's just as well I'm coming home" so that I can figure that out.
But I don't actually feel drunk. I had one glass of wine earlier (which I mentioned) and Kaori said "aren't you drunk after a glass of wine." and I said "no, I am an Anglo-Saxon, and we can drink forever and never get drunk." Of course, then I had to explain what an Anglo-Saxon is.
Which leads me to my main point: Most people suck most of the time. Some people suck only some of the time. I even think I suck some of the time. And since I always like to try to learn from these kinds of observations, I think the lesson is to hang on to those people who hardly suck at all (you know who you are, I hope).
Our experience with the waiter made me think of lessons on abusive relationships. Maybe "abusive" is too strong a word, but I think I mean relationships where there is a struggle with the power dynamic. They just don't work, whether it is with a waiter, a family member, a friend or a partner. Yet, in my unfortunate experience with this kind of thing, the other person is always shocked and upset when I take that necessary step back. I really don't think the waiter expected us to leave, bc he was trying to bully us into ordering, which we had fully intended to do bf he went off on us, even after it was clear that the relationship didn't work. Maybe the easy way for him to think about it was that we were "bad people" trying to take advantage of him and the restaurant, but you know that that was not the case.
On another matter all together, I was trying to get my key at the reception this afternoon and I noticed the DOB on the passport of someone checking in. He was born in 1987, and I was totally shocked to realize that I am almost old enough to be the mother of the people I sleep next to in this hostel. Maybe even the English girls I met on the train and later ate dinner with the night I arrived. This makes me think of a poem that Eric sent me the link to the other day:
http://www.livejournal.com/users/dpolicar/82758.html
Maybe it's finally time for me to, well, not act my age, but start acting like a grown up, or something. I don't know what that will be but, "it's just as well I'm coming home" so that I can figure that out.
Ice cream and Citrus
Mitja says of Slovenia that "there has got to be something great about a country whose national food appears to be ice cream, and you can buy it one every corner."
In other news, Mijta and Elysia had their baby earlier this week. They chose her name partly bc it is also the name of a fruit that is half mandarin and half orange (or should I say, California citrus). I saw pictures and she is gorgeous.
In other news, Mijta and Elysia had their baby earlier this week. They chose her name partly bc it is also the name of a fruit that is half mandarin and half orange (or should I say, California citrus). I saw pictures and she is gorgeous.
The Grumpy Blog
So, I am back here at the hostel mid-evening, and I am feeling a bit grumpy about it. Kaori and I went to dinner together, which I now believe was a mistake. Starting with the end of the story, the reason I am back here is because she didn't feel safe walking around the city at night. I should clarify that there are literally thousands of peaceful, happy people walking thru these pedestrianized streets every night, sidewalk cafes more often than not and they are always filled with people, and literally a live band playing on every other corner to entertain the masses. It is unclear to me what could possibly be unsafe about this place at night.
I really appreciated when people speak English, bc I don't speak Japanese or German or Slovenian, but speaking English doesn't have to mean speaking really loudly. Every time I said anything quietly, she repeated what I said loudly. I realize that she wanted to make sure that she understood, but when its "this restaurant is too expensive", well, that's just embarrassing.
She saw a sex shop on the street and told me about it, giggling. I said "Did you go inside?" She didn't. "Have you ever seen one before?" Yes, she had. So, why were we talking about this? Your guess is as good as mine.
Now, I realize that I am feeling grumpy about how the evening has gone so far (but I plan to fix that in a minute), but I just want to tell you a bit more. This guy who works at the hostel recommended a couple restaurants for "traditional Slovenian food". We went to the first, and I was immediately a bit concerned as the guy who greeted us said "this is the best restaurant in the city with the best food. Best food. Best restaurant." I said, "Can I see a menu?" Apparently we had to go upstairs and be seated to see a menu. This was where I whispered about it being too expensive....
So, I really believe that I asked for a glass of cold, dry white wine, and Kaori really did ask for a pitcher of ice water with orange slices like she saw on the counter, but apparently that is not what our waiter heard. She got a bottle of water, and I got a glass of red wine. I would have drunk my wine but he took it away when I told him that I had wanted white wine and I thought I had said that. He was less cooperative when she sent back her bottled water bc HE had already opened it for her (even though we told him bf he opened it that it wasn't what she wanted). But I guess the worst part is that he was aggressive and pushy and not the least bit interested in bringing us what we actually did want.
At this point, we were pretty sure he was going to spit in our soup, and since we hadn't ordered yet, we decided we should go. But not, of course, before he told us that we had to order something because this is a restaurant and not a bar. We left some money on the table for the wine (probably too much) and walked back down the stairs, at which point he chased us and called out, "you have to pay!" which of course we had.
The second restaurant that our hostel guy recommended didn't exist. Or at least it was closed and invisible. This was a problem bc we had left a note for our other roommate to meet us at one of these 2 places. We found a nearby restaurant, but she never found us.
When I am getting really grumpy, the thing I often think about to make myself more grumpy is labeling people. I HATE it when people tell me that I am anything in particular, like "smart" or "funny" or "clumsy" or "tall". It makes me furious. Why do we need to categorize people like that? I mean, I wear and XL women's t-shirt in Slovenia, but I wear a Medium women's t-shirt in the states. So, if people's simple minds need to label me in order to think they understand me, they could at least have the courtesy to keep their labels to themselves.
Boy, I am working myself into a real tissy here. (deep breath)
I really appreciated when people speak English, bc I don't speak Japanese or German or Slovenian, but speaking English doesn't have to mean speaking really loudly. Every time I said anything quietly, she repeated what I said loudly. I realize that she wanted to make sure that she understood, but when its "this restaurant is too expensive", well, that's just embarrassing.
She saw a sex shop on the street and told me about it, giggling. I said "Did you go inside?" She didn't. "Have you ever seen one before?" Yes, she had. So, why were we talking about this? Your guess is as good as mine.
Now, I realize that I am feeling grumpy about how the evening has gone so far (but I plan to fix that in a minute), but I just want to tell you a bit more. This guy who works at the hostel recommended a couple restaurants for "traditional Slovenian food". We went to the first, and I was immediately a bit concerned as the guy who greeted us said "this is the best restaurant in the city with the best food. Best food. Best restaurant." I said, "Can I see a menu?" Apparently we had to go upstairs and be seated to see a menu. This was where I whispered about it being too expensive....
So, I really believe that I asked for a glass of cold, dry white wine, and Kaori really did ask for a pitcher of ice water with orange slices like she saw on the counter, but apparently that is not what our waiter heard. She got a bottle of water, and I got a glass of red wine. I would have drunk my wine but he took it away when I told him that I had wanted white wine and I thought I had said that. He was less cooperative when she sent back her bottled water bc HE had already opened it for her (even though we told him bf he opened it that it wasn't what she wanted). But I guess the worst part is that he was aggressive and pushy and not the least bit interested in bringing us what we actually did want.
At this point, we were pretty sure he was going to spit in our soup, and since we hadn't ordered yet, we decided we should go. But not, of course, before he told us that we had to order something because this is a restaurant and not a bar. We left some money on the table for the wine (probably too much) and walked back down the stairs, at which point he chased us and called out, "you have to pay!" which of course we had.
The second restaurant that our hostel guy recommended didn't exist. Or at least it was closed and invisible. This was a problem bc we had left a note for our other roommate to meet us at one of these 2 places. We found a nearby restaurant, but she never found us.
When I am getting really grumpy, the thing I often think about to make myself more grumpy is labeling people. I HATE it when people tell me that I am anything in particular, like "smart" or "funny" or "clumsy" or "tall". It makes me furious. Why do we need to categorize people like that? I mean, I wear and XL women's t-shirt in Slovenia, but I wear a Medium women's t-shirt in the states. So, if people's simple minds need to label me in order to think they understand me, they could at least have the courtesy to keep their labels to themselves.
Boy, I am working myself into a real tissy here. (deep breath)
It's so cute when you speak....
Kaori and I went to the Postojnska caves today -- pretty cool. I've heard that they are both the largest in Europe and the largest in Slovenia (really quite a different thing) but anyway, they are 20 km deep and about 100m below the surface. They were very much like the ones that Carolyn, Kevin and I saw more than a year ago in Kings Canyon, but much much bigger. A river carved them into the limestone and then sunk below them. You start the tour by taking a little train for about a km into the ground. The stalactites and stalagmites are all over the place looking like chickens and spaghetti and ribbons and piles of white poop. I think there must have been like 1000 people on our tour.
Kaori is Japanese, but she speaks wonderful English. Caroline, the French/German girl who also shares our room, and I were talking about going rafting in the Alps. Later, Kaori says to me "You two are going laughing". Of course, I didn't understand, but as I already gave it away, she meant "rafting". Likewise, back at the conference, Giselle was trying to communicate something about people who sell things on the street, and she called them "hookers". Now, maybe its an issue for hookers to have space on the street, but probably that's not what she meant. Sara Stout couldn't stop laughing (tho silently) and later we both wondered why we feel uncomfortable trying to speak other languages. Everyone else makes mistakes trying to speak English with us, we think it's adorable.
Kaori loves Rome. You should have seen her effusing about the architecture. She's from a small town north or Tokyo where she drove alone to her job every day managing the production of Sony computers in China. She was very proud of this job. The office was surrounded by rice paddies, and there is no TDM, but they did pay like $10/mo for the parking. She saves every napkin bc she is concerned about the environment, but she is only vaguely aware of TDM programs. So, I want to talk to her about this some more. I also helped her to describe what she did in English, bc the way she described it was much longer than the way I have described it here. I wrote it out for her, in case she wants to create a resume in English.
She also had a funny idea that I would not drink green tea, only black tea. But maybe that's bc she prefers black tea.
I should wrap up here but there are a few more things I want to mention randomly:
One-third of all people who identify as Hungarian live outside the border of Hungary. I think the subtext here is that the Hungarians believe they have been robbed of their land and that the country should be much bigger. They didn't say it like that however.
Slovenia wanted Independence for economic, not racial, reasons, which is why there was no significant fighting here.
Young Hungarian women are very skinny with big boobs. Later they gain weight and become round and apple-shaped. My companions admired the young women (hey, what am I guy now?) with the understanding that it couldn't last.
Hungary is much cheaper than Slovenia.
Kaori is Japanese, but she speaks wonderful English. Caroline, the French/German girl who also shares our room, and I were talking about going rafting in the Alps. Later, Kaori says to me "You two are going laughing". Of course, I didn't understand, but as I already gave it away, she meant "rafting". Likewise, back at the conference, Giselle was trying to communicate something about people who sell things on the street, and she called them "hookers". Now, maybe its an issue for hookers to have space on the street, but probably that's not what she meant. Sara Stout couldn't stop laughing (tho silently) and later we both wondered why we feel uncomfortable trying to speak other languages. Everyone else makes mistakes trying to speak English with us, we think it's adorable.
Kaori loves Rome. You should have seen her effusing about the architecture. She's from a small town north or Tokyo where she drove alone to her job every day managing the production of Sony computers in China. She was very proud of this job. The office was surrounded by rice paddies, and there is no TDM, but they did pay like $10/mo for the parking. She saves every napkin bc she is concerned about the environment, but she is only vaguely aware of TDM programs. So, I want to talk to her about this some more. I also helped her to describe what she did in English, bc the way she described it was much longer than the way I have described it here. I wrote it out for her, in case she wants to create a resume in English.
She also had a funny idea that I would not drink green tea, only black tea. But maybe that's bc she prefers black tea.
I should wrap up here but there are a few more things I want to mention randomly:
One-third of all people who identify as Hungarian live outside the border of Hungary. I think the subtext here is that the Hungarians believe they have been robbed of their land and that the country should be much bigger. They didn't say it like that however.
Slovenia wanted Independence for economic, not racial, reasons, which is why there was no significant fighting here.
Young Hungarian women are very skinny with big boobs. Later they gain weight and become round and apple-shaped. My companions admired the young women (hey, what am I guy now?) with the understanding that it couldn't last.
Hungary is much cheaper than Slovenia.
Wednesday, July 27, 2005
Update and a story
I have made it to Lubljana and am installed in the youth hostel here. It's a pretty town with a pedestrianized center, lovely art nouveau buildings, and a river. The city is littered with sidewalk cafes with umbrellas and candlelight in the evening. There's even a castle up on the hilltop overlooking the dense little city. Lubljana doesn't feel like a country's capital, it's so small.
They've taken countdown signals to a new level. Not only do the lights count down the amount of time you have to cross the street, they also count down the amount of time the cars have to get thru the intersection. Unfortunately, the peds have 9 seconds and the cars 30, and this is in the pedestrian city center!
What else? I met these 2 young English girls on the train here, and we had dinner last night. I had fried calamari and salad, just like I might at home. I guess I am just know what I like.
I still have lots of conference stuff to catch up on. I will start with a story a Dutch bicycle specialist told us over lunch. So, the queen of one of the United Arab Emirate countries noticed that both her husband (the king) and the rest of the country were getting fat. They are, of course, very wealthy and no one has to work because of the oil. She is an elegant lady, and she wants things and people around her to look nice.
The king had hired the Rand Corporation to run his country so that he didn't have to bother with it. So, he calls them up and tells them that they have to come up with a plan by which he and his nationals will lose weight.
The Rand Corporation thinks about this for a while and decide that if everyone road bicycles, then they wouldn't be fat. They call my lunch companion for assistance.
But there are problems: the country is incredibly hot. No problem, they say, we will air condition the streets using solar power (there is lots of sunshine). They design a system where the streets are covered with like a Bedouin tent and water is sprayed below it cooling the air. Second problem: how do we measure success? Well, very sophisticated athletes have this machine that measures everything about them (blood pressure, percent body fat, etc.) just by stepping into it. So, they are going to install some of those along this street, and all of the citizens are required to bicycle up and down the air conditioned street and then have their condition checked by the machine on a regular basis. Actually, eventually it will be a network of air conditioned streets. This is a dictatorship, after all. Citizens risk death is they do not comply.
It's like a planners wet dream, isn't it. I just have some problems with the plan: where is this water coming from? and also, is air conditioning the streets going to change the climate?
They've taken countdown signals to a new level. Not only do the lights count down the amount of time you have to cross the street, they also count down the amount of time the cars have to get thru the intersection. Unfortunately, the peds have 9 seconds and the cars 30, and this is in the pedestrian city center!
What else? I met these 2 young English girls on the train here, and we had dinner last night. I had fried calamari and salad, just like I might at home. I guess I am just know what I like.
I still have lots of conference stuff to catch up on. I will start with a story a Dutch bicycle specialist told us over lunch. So, the queen of one of the United Arab Emirate countries noticed that both her husband (the king) and the rest of the country were getting fat. They are, of course, very wealthy and no one has to work because of the oil. She is an elegant lady, and she wants things and people around her to look nice.
The king had hired the Rand Corporation to run his country so that he didn't have to bother with it. So, he calls them up and tells them that they have to come up with a plan by which he and his nationals will lose weight.
The Rand Corporation thinks about this for a while and decide that if everyone road bicycles, then they wouldn't be fat. They call my lunch companion for assistance.
But there are problems: the country is incredibly hot. No problem, they say, we will air condition the streets using solar power (there is lots of sunshine). They design a system where the streets are covered with like a Bedouin tent and water is sprayed below it cooling the air. Second problem: how do we measure success? Well, very sophisticated athletes have this machine that measures everything about them (blood pressure, percent body fat, etc.) just by stepping into it. So, they are going to install some of those along this street, and all of the citizens are required to bicycle up and down the air conditioned street and then have their condition checked by the machine on a regular basis. Actually, eventually it will be a network of air conditioned streets. This is a dictatorship, after all. Citizens risk death is they do not comply.
It's like a planners wet dream, isn't it. I just have some problems with the plan: where is this water coming from? and also, is air conditioning the streets going to change the climate?
Monday, July 25, 2005
Yesterday
Now I am typing from cafe where the keyboard is not set to English standard but so far that just seems to mean that the "y" and the "z" are switched and also, I just learned, that the quotations are in different places. This cafe is supposed to be open until 10, but they have already turned the chairs up on top of the tables. For some reason they are letting me use the computer anyway.
I don't want to spend a whole lot of time bc the keyboard is so annoying and bc they are closing, but I will try to give a brief rundown of yesterday.
I met Markus for breakfast, and Marta and Serge were there too. The 4 of us decided to walk to the Transport Museum (which, it turned out, is really far). We walked thru various pedestrianized areas, filled with tourist restaurants trying to lure us in. We also visited the synagogue, which is apparently the largest in Europe (??). They many works of art commemorating people murdered by the nazis including a metal weeping willow with a different name on each leaf and placks down on its base.
We continued our walk. Marta and Serge pealed off after a bit bc they had an appointment at 3. Markus and I stopped for a coffee in the park next to what looked like some kind of market (we never found out). The Transport Museum was cool, I would say even better than the one in London. I particularly liked the old bicycles and trains (big surprise there). Also included were old cars and a lesson on pavement materials, boats and horse-drawn carriages. The postcards weren't any good.
Afterwards, we had a beverage under a real weeping willow next to a pond where people road boats around. We took the oldest subway system in the word back. It's small and not very far below the surface, just like one small flight of stairs.
For dinner we ate at this vegetarian place which was really good. However, Jason (of Berlin) got the best thing with sweet pickled cabbage and a deep-fried rice patty. In the spirit of traveling, we all finished each others' plates (tho it wasn't family style). In fact, these travelers are hilarious about finishing whatever is left, be it by a friend or stranger. I guess that's what happens when you don't have any money for a long period of time.
Afterwards we went to that squat that I told you about in the previous blog with the multicolored lights in the broken windows. Had a few beers and walked back to the hostel.
I don't want to spend a whole lot of time bc the keyboard is so annoying and bc they are closing, but I will try to give a brief rundown of yesterday.
I met Markus for breakfast, and Marta and Serge were there too. The 4 of us decided to walk to the Transport Museum (which, it turned out, is really far). We walked thru various pedestrianized areas, filled with tourist restaurants trying to lure us in. We also visited the synagogue, which is apparently the largest in Europe (??). They many works of art commemorating people murdered by the nazis including a metal weeping willow with a different name on each leaf and placks down on its base.
We continued our walk. Marta and Serge pealed off after a bit bc they had an appointment at 3. Markus and I stopped for a coffee in the park next to what looked like some kind of market (we never found out). The Transport Museum was cool, I would say even better than the one in London. I particularly liked the old bicycles and trains (big surprise there). Also included were old cars and a lesson on pavement materials, boats and horse-drawn carriages. The postcards weren't any good.
Afterwards, we had a beverage under a real weeping willow next to a pond where people road boats around. We took the oldest subway system in the word back. It's small and not very far below the surface, just like one small flight of stairs.
For dinner we ate at this vegetarian place which was really good. However, Jason (of Berlin) got the best thing with sweet pickled cabbage and a deep-fried rice patty. In the spirit of traveling, we all finished each others' plates (tho it wasn't family style). In fact, these travelers are hilarious about finishing whatever is left, be it by a friend or stranger. I guess that's what happens when you don't have any money for a long period of time.
Afterwards we went to that squat that I told you about in the previous blog with the multicolored lights in the broken windows. Had a few beers and walked back to the hostel.
Buda
Budapest is a grittier, less self-satisfied version of Prague. The city center does not look like a jewel box. It's all about the river and 9 out of every 10 buildings, should you take a moment to look at them, will take your breath away with their ornate art nouveau detail. The trams are adorable (sort of like SF's F-train, except these old cars are the original old cars -- they're not about being old tram cars). The buildings line the river and remind me sort of of Tel Aviv and sort of of, well, Prague. At the same time, they have this soviet architecture and bombed-out buildings that have been converted to beer gardens with a very hip scene. This one place we went to a couple times was between 2 uninhabited buildings. Their windows were broken. Their facades of crumbling cement. One had a basement space where djs played and women customers danced to an audience. Outside, there were shapes painted on the walls -- a big bulls eye off center, and every window in the adjacent 8-story building not only was broken but also had a different colored light in it. This aspect of the city reminded me most of Berlin.
I don't remember what we did when we were here 10 years ago, but I think we probably missed the hole point. I remember walking along the river in the freezing air and drinking beer in a basement pub that seemed to only cater to people who they knew (they knew the guy we were staying with who picked us up at the train station). I don't remember the beautiful buildings (did I not look up?) and I know we never went to any of the baths (what were we thinking?).
Today was a moderate failure. I wanted to see the castle, to visit a 15th Century Turkish bath, and to see the statue park of all the old communist statues that had been removed from thruout the city. Not necessarily in that order. I started with a church in a cave in the first hill north of here on the Buda side (where the hostel is). It was just that, with low ceilings and multiple cavernous spaces. Then I climbed to the top of the citadel, which is the highest point in the city. There I ate my first lunch in a shady spot away from the view bc the sun was hot and the air humid. The city looks more like every other European city from up there, gray and big with ugly highrise apartment buildings around its sprawling perimeter.
I only got a little lost on my way down from the hill, thru parks, and negotiating my route between highways with ped and bikeways that don't quite compensate for the fact that you are crossing a highway between park spaces. After walking past the dilapidated buildings that must have been the entry to the castle, I took the funicular railway up to the castle. I think I have been there before. It was pretty with an interesting mix of pretty old things and pretty, but clearly not quite in place, new things. I walked around up there for a while -- its like there's a whole little city up there, and I got tired and started wanting a coffee. But the tourist prices were more than I could take. So I walked back down the hill and found a pizza place (sorry) where I had an overpriced coffee and pizza. Yeah, it was pretty good.
That about did me in -- I had been walking off and on for 4 hours. So, I took a tram back to the hostel to regroup. Instead I slept for the rest of the afternoon. It's dark out now and people are waiting to use this computer, so I might do another blog entry from a cafe or I might not....
I don't remember what we did when we were here 10 years ago, but I think we probably missed the hole point. I remember walking along the river in the freezing air and drinking beer in a basement pub that seemed to only cater to people who they knew (they knew the guy we were staying with who picked us up at the train station). I don't remember the beautiful buildings (did I not look up?) and I know we never went to any of the baths (what were we thinking?).
Today was a moderate failure. I wanted to see the castle, to visit a 15th Century Turkish bath, and to see the statue park of all the old communist statues that had been removed from thruout the city. Not necessarily in that order. I started with a church in a cave in the first hill north of here on the Buda side (where the hostel is). It was just that, with low ceilings and multiple cavernous spaces. Then I climbed to the top of the citadel, which is the highest point in the city. There I ate my first lunch in a shady spot away from the view bc the sun was hot and the air humid. The city looks more like every other European city from up there, gray and big with ugly highrise apartment buildings around its sprawling perimeter.
I only got a little lost on my way down from the hill, thru parks, and negotiating my route between highways with ped and bikeways that don't quite compensate for the fact that you are crossing a highway between park spaces. After walking past the dilapidated buildings that must have been the entry to the castle, I took the funicular railway up to the castle. I think I have been there before. It was pretty with an interesting mix of pretty old things and pretty, but clearly not quite in place, new things. I walked around up there for a while -- its like there's a whole little city up there, and I got tired and started wanting a coffee. But the tourist prices were more than I could take. So I walked back down the hill and found a pizza place (sorry) where I had an overpriced coffee and pizza. Yeah, it was pretty good.
That about did me in -- I had been walking off and on for 4 hours. So, I took a tram back to the hostel to regroup. Instead I slept for the rest of the afternoon. It's dark out now and people are waiting to use this computer, so I might do another blog entry from a cafe or I might not....
Mob Mentality
It appears that I have out-stayed most of the conference participants, and now I am here in Budapest relatively alone. Starting from where I left you last, the closing party on Thursday night included entertainment by a Tom Waits cover band. Men, women and dogs took the mike and sang about all that dope they used to take and being hung over. It was awesome. While I was kidding about the dogs, the female vocalist was totally amazing. We weren't sure if her voice was naturally like that or if it was cultivated, but we suspected that it was natural.
As usual, the company was excellent, and people danced. We drank beer.
Friday was the annual general meeting (AGM) and while I planned to attend it all, they wore me out after the first half, and I spent the afternoon sleeping 2.5 hours. They use a consensus process. Groups form to discuss specific issues and then report back to the entire group with their recommendations. I participated in the Charter and Statute group, and the issues we wrestled with included whether the staff member of the steering committee gets a full vote (they do, but changed how they are appointed to make the process more democratic), that motorcycles should be included with cars in the Charter (they should, but we left re-writing the charter to the steering committee bc it has to sound beautiful), whether the steering committee should have a point person/press representative (this was the most unclear -- we said that they should and they said that they had just decided that the press representative should be a staff member) and so on. It was both interesting to learn about how the organization functions and unbelievably boring in process and details. I think the other groups may have had more fun prioritizing projects and the like.
That night there were several groups doing things, but the 2 I knew about were 1) Hungarian folk dancing or 2) drinking beer at a squat. While the company would have been more reliable (Brian and Jason from SF), I couldn't pass up the folk dancing. I missed the first wave over, but Steve knew where it was so I headed over there later with him. We got lost twice on our way, and when we found it, it was a small, brightly-lit community center room crowded with people. We opted not to spend the 500 fl (about 2.50 dollars) but instead to stand outside and watch the dancers thru the window. This quickly changed to talking to the dancers thru the window and then to dancing while looking thru the window. The windows were large, open and covered with bars, and the floor the same level inside and out. We bought drinks at a nearby cafe and we consumed them from our outside(rs)-post. Soon our group of 2 became larger as others realised our spot was better.
We accidentally missed the last tram but walking back along the Danube only took about an hour.
Saturday morning was the conference evaluation which was fine and uneventful. The afternoon excursion was cancelled due to rain (which of course went away as soon as that decision was made). Instead a few of us (Marta, Arie, Steve, Silke and myself) went to the baths. I think others slept or went to the open market. I don't know. We went to a different bath this time (Gellert) -- it was equally lovely but much smaller and we paid extra for the thermal baths with the swimming pool. There were 3 temperatures of sauna, a steam room, lots of showers, 2 warm baths and a cold bath. The indoor pool (with retractable roof) was pretty small, but had lots of little fountains, etc. and I liked it a lot. There was an outdoor pool too, and it appeared to be intended for children as most of it was very shallow. The main thing that's better about these baths compared to the others is that they are much closers to our hostel. (I might go again in a few minutes.) However, it is expensive (like 15 dollars to go for a swim), but I guess its worth it cuz it's so pretty.
That night about 17 of us headed out to find a vegetarian restaurant. Of course, the first one we went to was closed, but instead we found a music festival occupying one of the city's bridges. About half of us decided to eat there (including myself) and half of us wanted to keep looking for a vegetarian restaurant. I had greek salad, a large sausage and a large beer, and apparently I chose well be others were not happy with their food. Again we splintered, some of us sitting on the grass in a nearby park/median and others finding a table as part of the festival seating. I am not sure what was good about the seating, other than that it involved seats, but on the grass we were treated to a lite acrobatic performance.
After dinner, we took a short stroll across the bridge and back, noticed some belly dancers on an alternate stage, and headed to another neighborhood where we planned to meet the others for drinks. We later learned that it took them another 2 tries and 1.5 hours to find a vegetarian restaurant, but when they did it was excellent. The group continued to disperse, as we lost a few more member to fatigue or something. We never met up with the vegetarians again that night despite ceaseless texting towards that end. Steve, Markus and I had a quiet beer or 3, just the 3 of us, in a pedestrianized area on the Pest side of the river.
I think I'll tell you the rest in another post....
As usual, the company was excellent, and people danced. We drank beer.
Friday was the annual general meeting (AGM) and while I planned to attend it all, they wore me out after the first half, and I spent the afternoon sleeping 2.5 hours. They use a consensus process. Groups form to discuss specific issues and then report back to the entire group with their recommendations. I participated in the Charter and Statute group, and the issues we wrestled with included whether the staff member of the steering committee gets a full vote (they do, but changed how they are appointed to make the process more democratic), that motorcycles should be included with cars in the Charter (they should, but we left re-writing the charter to the steering committee bc it has to sound beautiful), whether the steering committee should have a point person/press representative (this was the most unclear -- we said that they should and they said that they had just decided that the press representative should be a staff member) and so on. It was both interesting to learn about how the organization functions and unbelievably boring in process and details. I think the other groups may have had more fun prioritizing projects and the like.
That night there were several groups doing things, but the 2 I knew about were 1) Hungarian folk dancing or 2) drinking beer at a squat. While the company would have been more reliable (Brian and Jason from SF), I couldn't pass up the folk dancing. I missed the first wave over, but Steve knew where it was so I headed over there later with him. We got lost twice on our way, and when we found it, it was a small, brightly-lit community center room crowded with people. We opted not to spend the 500 fl (about 2.50 dollars) but instead to stand outside and watch the dancers thru the window. This quickly changed to talking to the dancers thru the window and then to dancing while looking thru the window. The windows were large, open and covered with bars, and the floor the same level inside and out. We bought drinks at a nearby cafe and we consumed them from our outside(rs)-post. Soon our group of 2 became larger as others realised our spot was better.
We accidentally missed the last tram but walking back along the Danube only took about an hour.
Saturday morning was the conference evaluation which was fine and uneventful. The afternoon excursion was cancelled due to rain (which of course went away as soon as that decision was made). Instead a few of us (Marta, Arie, Steve, Silke and myself) went to the baths. I think others slept or went to the open market. I don't know. We went to a different bath this time (Gellert) -- it was equally lovely but much smaller and we paid extra for the thermal baths with the swimming pool. There were 3 temperatures of sauna, a steam room, lots of showers, 2 warm baths and a cold bath. The indoor pool (with retractable roof) was pretty small, but had lots of little fountains, etc. and I liked it a lot. There was an outdoor pool too, and it appeared to be intended for children as most of it was very shallow. The main thing that's better about these baths compared to the others is that they are much closers to our hostel. (I might go again in a few minutes.) However, it is expensive (like 15 dollars to go for a swim), but I guess its worth it cuz it's so pretty.
That night about 17 of us headed out to find a vegetarian restaurant. Of course, the first one we went to was closed, but instead we found a music festival occupying one of the city's bridges. About half of us decided to eat there (including myself) and half of us wanted to keep looking for a vegetarian restaurant. I had greek salad, a large sausage and a large beer, and apparently I chose well be others were not happy with their food. Again we splintered, some of us sitting on the grass in a nearby park/median and others finding a table as part of the festival seating. I am not sure what was good about the seating, other than that it involved seats, but on the grass we were treated to a lite acrobatic performance.
After dinner, we took a short stroll across the bridge and back, noticed some belly dancers on an alternate stage, and headed to another neighborhood where we planned to meet the others for drinks. We later learned that it took them another 2 tries and 1.5 hours to find a vegetarian restaurant, but when they did it was excellent. The group continued to disperse, as we lost a few more member to fatigue or something. We never met up with the vegetarians again that night despite ceaseless texting towards that end. Steve, Markus and I had a quiet beer or 3, just the 3 of us, in a pedestrianized area on the Pest side of the river.
I think I'll tell you the rest in another post....
Thursday, July 21, 2005
Communication
I woke up this morning with a bit of a headache altho there seems to be some disagreement about whether I actually partied significantly or not. People who stayed out later than I say that they did not, while others have observed that I did. This is the problem with trying to categorize anything or really communicate with other people.
I missed the first round of talks this morning. It was a workshop day which means that it was supposed to be collaborative rather than instructive. The one I did attend was called "Communicating your message to the public" which was really about managing the press and public opinion about Critical Mass (CM). One of the organizers of CM in Budapest talked for a very long time about their efforts. Their mass is much more organized than the others I know. They even provide the press with photo ops that will look good bc they know the route they will take. Brian talked about CM and the conflicts in 1997 with Mayor Brown, and how they managed it, and people talked about Masses in Georgia, US and Barcelona.
In Georgia, they changed the name to courteous mass and followed all the rules of traffic. This made the event much more mainstream than other masses, which is appropriate considering the conservative politics of the south. Children and Republicans rode regularly.
What I particularly love about Mass in SF is the way we respond to anger. When an angry driver yells at us, the self-posessed masser smiles and waves back; "hurray!" she calls. How can you remain angry with cute girls on bicycles celebrating in your general direction. Of course, these massers also leave quickly bc no one wants to be around angry people, just in case.
In the afternoon we took a tram to a park and road bicycles designed to look like cars around. Think about it: a bunch of anti-car activists riding around a carfree areas in pretend cars. Hilarious. The park was very pretty, and afterwards we sat in a cafe for a bit as the sun filtered thru the nearby trees. A Turkish city planning prof complimented me on my talk and then told me about her new research project on visual language and how it can be applied to planning. I want to learn more about that!
Dinner was actually good, that german pasta stuff with cream and a mystery meat (we are used to mystery meat by now) cucumber salad and an apple. I took my apple for later.
I missed the first round of talks this morning. It was a workshop day which means that it was supposed to be collaborative rather than instructive. The one I did attend was called "Communicating your message to the public" which was really about managing the press and public opinion about Critical Mass (CM). One of the organizers of CM in Budapest talked for a very long time about their efforts. Their mass is much more organized than the others I know. They even provide the press with photo ops that will look good bc they know the route they will take. Brian talked about CM and the conflicts in 1997 with Mayor Brown, and how they managed it, and people talked about Masses in Georgia, US and Barcelona.
In Georgia, they changed the name to courteous mass and followed all the rules of traffic. This made the event much more mainstream than other masses, which is appropriate considering the conservative politics of the south. Children and Republicans rode regularly.
What I particularly love about Mass in SF is the way we respond to anger. When an angry driver yells at us, the self-posessed masser smiles and waves back; "hurray!" she calls. How can you remain angry with cute girls on bicycles celebrating in your general direction. Of course, these massers also leave quickly bc no one wants to be around angry people, just in case.
In the afternoon we took a tram to a park and road bicycles designed to look like cars around. Think about it: a bunch of anti-car activists riding around a carfree areas in pretend cars. Hilarious. The park was very pretty, and afterwards we sat in a cafe for a bit as the sun filtered thru the nearby trees. A Turkish city planning prof complimented me on my talk and then told me about her new research project on visual language and how it can be applied to planning. I want to learn more about that!
Dinner was actually good, that german pasta stuff with cream and a mystery meat (we are used to mystery meat by now) cucumber salad and an apple. I took my apple for later.
Wednesday, July 20, 2005
ideas
1) a swimming pools of Europe tour book
2) a travel time challenge, sort of like a tag race or whatever you call that game, where you travel around the city by different modes, you're not allowed to pay for parking or anything, and you see who finishes first: bikes, peds, transit riders or car drivers.
2) a travel time challenge, sort of like a tag race or whatever you call that game, where you travel around the city by different modes, you're not allowed to pay for parking or anything, and you see who finishes first: bikes, peds, transit riders or car drivers.
The sooner you get behind the more time you have to catch up.
I am so far behind in the blog by now that I almost want to bag the whole project and start a new one, but I won't bc what this is really about is committment. I feel committed enough to the blog that I will ride out this rough spell. (big sigh.)
The weather has cooled significantly, which makes a world of difference, and the conferences is still going strong but has reached its second half. For those of you not keep track of my every move, I am at the Towards Carfree Cities conference in Budapest. It started on Monday, and ends with an excusion on Saturday. I am thinking of staying until Monday just so that I can try this Turkish bath from the 15th Century. But I haven't decided yet.
You will recall that I came to this conference last year when it was in Berlin and made many wonderful friends some of whom are here again, like Steve my kind host in Prague, Brian, and, well, others I might not have talked about. Maya, sadly, is not here, but she is still very much involved. Many many people have super interesting projects they're working on and I will get to describing those one of these days.
When I get really behind with this, I find it is most helpful to start with the present moment and work backwards. Right this minute it is evening, there's a party going on in the next room where we are all supposed to be sharing something from our culture. I have nothing to share other than my shiney Alt-Am personality, altho Brian was trying to get me to sing the Beach Boys with him. Not sure how I feel about that.
Just a few moments ago, before I started waiting for the computer, I saw a couple presentations. Sara Stout talked about the bike culture in Portland, OR. They did some cool stuff like make a giant bird that they then attach to a bike and ride around with at festivals like Critical Mass. She showed bicycle facilities, like sculturesque parking and creative stencils marking the bike lane, and slides of their bunny ride and their pretty dress ride. It looks like a lot of fun, but I can't help but notice how rich they are in space. None of us have enough room for some projects like those in SF. Or New York. Or Paris....
The first talk tonight was a make up talk by David Peckham on Bicycle Transportation in Africa. He was scheduled to give this talk on Monday, but it turned out that a 2 day layover coming from Africa is not enough. He missed his connection and arrived a few hours after his talk was scheduled to finish. As far as Monday's needs went, this worked fine bc every single talk goes over schedule, and, well, he was able to do the make up talk. Not sure how many people attended tonight (maybe I'll go count in a minute) but it would have been 50 on Monday (when I did count bc he would have gone just before my talk -- more on that later). Anyway....
He was a Peace Corp volunteer in Ghana back in the mid-1980s, and he began his talk by pointing out that his shoes are made out of old tires -- this first sign of a post-car culture. Some time later (than 1985), the govt removed tarifs on bicycles, changing their status from leisure equipment to transportation. He considered this a sign that he should start importing bicycles for the Ghanaese to ride for transportation. Anyway, to make a long story short (or have I already succeeded in doing the reverse as usual?), he imports bicycle and bicycle parts to Ghana. He has 2 local business partners who sell the bikes and tools, but they reserve some to offer at half price to rural people who participate in a bicycle maintenance class. So far they have taught about 57 of these workshops and distributed 1150 bikes this way. These classes elevate the role of the bicycle mechanic in the society, and they have a mandate to include between 20 and 50% women in the classes (but only about 3% of women actually ride bikes). The also offer an advanced class.
By riding bicycles instead of walking or riding the bus, people save something like 25% of their salary. That is, they save time, make more money, and don't have to spend money on other things like the bus. This project seems to me one of the most honorable things a person could do. And they need volunteers.
OK, so don't freak out, I am not going to be one of them. I am a woman, a poor bicycle mechanic, and my french is pretty bad, but I can imagine if all those things were different, it would be a super cool thing to do. So, if you know anyone who might want to volunteer, refer them to: pcei.org/vbp. They also need used bikes, parts and tools, but only from Europe.
Earlier today we ditched the conference for a swim in one of the thermal baths. It was basically a really cool and kinda expensive swimming pool, beautiful with nice architecture and sculptures and fountains lining the pool. The lap pool was at the center, and at either end had a jaccuzi thing in the center (not hot) and what Brian called a Hungarian washing machine around it (where jets sent you swirling around in a circle with everyone else -- I bonked into a lot of people and the wall a number of times -- fun but a little painful, and I am not into that kind of thing). Surrounding the washing machine is a paddling pool about the size of the lap pool (big). After paddling around for about an hour, we had a beer on the terrace before heading back. I am not sure I would go a second time this visit, but I would recommend it to others.
The hostel is dirty and austere with Soviet style architecture and everything broken but not beyond usablity. Two nights ago I had to fight off the cockroach (literally) that wanted to sleep with me (you know, he wasn't really my type, and I am not single anyway). I haven't seen any living cockroaches since, but there's a dead one on the sink in my room. I am afraid to move him in case he comes back to life or something. Ick. Otherwise, the room has a sort of elegant soviet efficency, intended for 2 people, with evenly 2 of everything: narrow bed, desk, closet, cabinet, bookshelf. It was terribly hot the first 2 days and sleeping unpleasant. A disco keeps me awake until the wee hours. The food is also pretty bad, but I manage to eat plenty of fruit which provided in excess. Maybe I should do a fruit fast, except I am way too hungry all the time.
blah blah blah. I have managed to ramble on for quite a while here, and yet I still have only caught up on a few things. Count on more rambling another day. Now I think I'll join the party.
The weather has cooled significantly, which makes a world of difference, and the conferences is still going strong but has reached its second half. For those of you not keep track of my every move, I am at the Towards Carfree Cities conference in Budapest. It started on Monday, and ends with an excusion on Saturday. I am thinking of staying until Monday just so that I can try this Turkish bath from the 15th Century. But I haven't decided yet.
You will recall that I came to this conference last year when it was in Berlin and made many wonderful friends some of whom are here again, like Steve my kind host in Prague, Brian, and, well, others I might not have talked about. Maya, sadly, is not here, but she is still very much involved. Many many people have super interesting projects they're working on and I will get to describing those one of these days.
When I get really behind with this, I find it is most helpful to start with the present moment and work backwards. Right this minute it is evening, there's a party going on in the next room where we are all supposed to be sharing something from our culture. I have nothing to share other than my shiney Alt-Am personality, altho Brian was trying to get me to sing the Beach Boys with him. Not sure how I feel about that.
Just a few moments ago, before I started waiting for the computer, I saw a couple presentations. Sara Stout talked about the bike culture in Portland, OR. They did some cool stuff like make a giant bird that they then attach to a bike and ride around with at festivals like Critical Mass. She showed bicycle facilities, like sculturesque parking and creative stencils marking the bike lane, and slides of their bunny ride and their pretty dress ride. It looks like a lot of fun, but I can't help but notice how rich they are in space. None of us have enough room for some projects like those in SF. Or New York. Or Paris....
The first talk tonight was a make up talk by David Peckham on Bicycle Transportation in Africa. He was scheduled to give this talk on Monday, but it turned out that a 2 day layover coming from Africa is not enough. He missed his connection and arrived a few hours after his talk was scheduled to finish. As far as Monday's needs went, this worked fine bc every single talk goes over schedule, and, well, he was able to do the make up talk. Not sure how many people attended tonight (maybe I'll go count in a minute) but it would have been 50 on Monday (when I did count bc he would have gone just before my talk -- more on that later). Anyway....
He was a Peace Corp volunteer in Ghana back in the mid-1980s, and he began his talk by pointing out that his shoes are made out of old tires -- this first sign of a post-car culture. Some time later (than 1985), the govt removed tarifs on bicycles, changing their status from leisure equipment to transportation. He considered this a sign that he should start importing bicycles for the Ghanaese to ride for transportation. Anyway, to make a long story short (or have I already succeeded in doing the reverse as usual?), he imports bicycle and bicycle parts to Ghana. He has 2 local business partners who sell the bikes and tools, but they reserve some to offer at half price to rural people who participate in a bicycle maintenance class. So far they have taught about 57 of these workshops and distributed 1150 bikes this way. These classes elevate the role of the bicycle mechanic in the society, and they have a mandate to include between 20 and 50% women in the classes (but only about 3% of women actually ride bikes). The also offer an advanced class.
By riding bicycles instead of walking or riding the bus, people save something like 25% of their salary. That is, they save time, make more money, and don't have to spend money on other things like the bus. This project seems to me one of the most honorable things a person could do. And they need volunteers.
OK, so don't freak out, I am not going to be one of them. I am a woman, a poor bicycle mechanic, and my french is pretty bad, but I can imagine if all those things were different, it would be a super cool thing to do. So, if you know anyone who might want to volunteer, refer them to: pcei.org/vbp. They also need used bikes, parts and tools, but only from Europe.
Earlier today we ditched the conference for a swim in one of the thermal baths. It was basically a really cool and kinda expensive swimming pool, beautiful with nice architecture and sculptures and fountains lining the pool. The lap pool was at the center, and at either end had a jaccuzi thing in the center (not hot) and what Brian called a Hungarian washing machine around it (where jets sent you swirling around in a circle with everyone else -- I bonked into a lot of people and the wall a number of times -- fun but a little painful, and I am not into that kind of thing). Surrounding the washing machine is a paddling pool about the size of the lap pool (big). After paddling around for about an hour, we had a beer on the terrace before heading back. I am not sure I would go a second time this visit, but I would recommend it to others.
The hostel is dirty and austere with Soviet style architecture and everything broken but not beyond usablity. Two nights ago I had to fight off the cockroach (literally) that wanted to sleep with me (you know, he wasn't really my type, and I am not single anyway). I haven't seen any living cockroaches since, but there's a dead one on the sink in my room. I am afraid to move him in case he comes back to life or something. Ick. Otherwise, the room has a sort of elegant soviet efficency, intended for 2 people, with evenly 2 of everything: narrow bed, desk, closet, cabinet, bookshelf. It was terribly hot the first 2 days and sleeping unpleasant. A disco keeps me awake until the wee hours. The food is also pretty bad, but I manage to eat plenty of fruit which provided in excess. Maybe I should do a fruit fast, except I am way too hungry all the time.
blah blah blah. I have managed to ramble on for quite a while here, and yet I still have only caught up on a few things. Count on more rambling another day. Now I think I'll join the party.
Sunday, July 10, 2005
The art of bottling sunshine
I fully realize that French wine with English writing on it is a marketing gimmick and good wine doesn't need a gimmick (just a pretty label). But I am afraid that I bought this bottle of rose (for myself) because I liked what it said: Art de vivre -- The art of bottling sunshine from the Roussillon region in the South of France.
And on the cork no less.
I have long called myself a "life artist" -- ever since I stopped drawing after college. I was good, but I just never produced anything without the structure of school, and eventually I decided to stop beating myself up for being who I am and start telling people who asked that, instead of drawing, I live my life like a work of art. OK, sure, that sounds ridiculously hippy-dippy and pretentious, but let those feelings go for a minute. What it means, of course, is that every step I take and every item or action I include should be carefully considered, composed, coordinated with the overall scheme. At any given time, I might work on a variety compositions: the lost soul, the doting friend, the professional, the party girl, the woman with a beautiful home, and even the artist. I am not saying that any of them are masterpieces, but I consider them as I make each decision, and try to give then their due respect.
But bottling sunshine... you know how there are some people who brighten a room, or get a party going well, or a conversation? You know how there are some people you just want to talk to forever and some people you can't think of anything to say to? It has nothing to do with what you have in common or what you might have shared -- it's chemistry, but it's also identity. Some people can talk to anyone. Some of my friends believe I am one of them. I am most certainly not. See what I mean?
Do people change? Elizabeth says they don't, and I am inclined to believe her in the long-term. But what about hourly, daily, as we breath in and breath out? Of course we do. The social and physical soup which we flavor and which flavors us changes. Since I stopped drinking coffee (which I highly recommend doing), I am no longer an extremely moody person, but I believe I am talking here about something more than moodiness.
That makes me want to talk about how we feel relative to how we care for ourselves. My mother never seems to feel very good and is always tired, and I firmly believe that that has more to do with the fact that she's dehydrated than anything else. I once went to a doctor and said "I get headaches; should I drink more water?" He said "I don't know about that. Do you want pain killers?" (What's wrong with this world?!) My friend Rachel said to me recently "Have you changed your diet?" I still don't know why. A guy once broke up with me because he had been drinking decaf for about 4 days while I was there ("I just feel really headachy and low-energy now that you're here") -- neither one of use realized this until later (not that I am sorry now, but at the time it was kind of annoying). So, my "social and physical soup" is more than metaphorical -- it's physical. It's just not actual soup that you eat for lunch.
Wow! I really did not see all that coming at all -- it would be hubris for me to liken that wine marketing and me to Proust and his madeline, but maybe I am a nice matchbox car to it.
Speaking of sunshine, the weather appears to be sunnier today, and I woke up on my own at 8. I had strange unpleasant dreams and woke up twice in the night. Yesterday I spent most of the day on my presentation, but I also took a walk to Chateau de Vincenne. I walked around the castle in the fading Sunday afternoon light. Since the streets here are neither straight nor gridded, I nearly got lost returning until I looked around and found myself exactly one block from the apartment. (which makes me want to talk about attitude, but it will have to wait for another blog. Did I tell you my pen literally exploded on me on the airplane? More on that and mini-earth quakes releasing the pressure and how we think about the world we live in another time.)
And on the cork no less.
I have long called myself a "life artist" -- ever since I stopped drawing after college. I was good, but I just never produced anything without the structure of school, and eventually I decided to stop beating myself up for being who I am and start telling people who asked that, instead of drawing, I live my life like a work of art. OK, sure, that sounds ridiculously hippy-dippy and pretentious, but let those feelings go for a minute. What it means, of course, is that every step I take and every item or action I include should be carefully considered, composed, coordinated with the overall scheme. At any given time, I might work on a variety compositions: the lost soul, the doting friend, the professional, the party girl, the woman with a beautiful home, and even the artist. I am not saying that any of them are masterpieces, but I consider them as I make each decision, and try to give then their due respect.
But bottling sunshine... you know how there are some people who brighten a room, or get a party going well, or a conversation? You know how there are some people you just want to talk to forever and some people you can't think of anything to say to? It has nothing to do with what you have in common or what you might have shared -- it's chemistry, but it's also identity. Some people can talk to anyone. Some of my friends believe I am one of them. I am most certainly not. See what I mean?
Do people change? Elizabeth says they don't, and I am inclined to believe her in the long-term. But what about hourly, daily, as we breath in and breath out? Of course we do. The social and physical soup which we flavor and which flavors us changes. Since I stopped drinking coffee (which I highly recommend doing), I am no longer an extremely moody person, but I believe I am talking here about something more than moodiness.
That makes me want to talk about how we feel relative to how we care for ourselves. My mother never seems to feel very good and is always tired, and I firmly believe that that has more to do with the fact that she's dehydrated than anything else. I once went to a doctor and said "I get headaches; should I drink more water?" He said "I don't know about that. Do you want pain killers?" (What's wrong with this world?!) My friend Rachel said to me recently "Have you changed your diet?" I still don't know why. A guy once broke up with me because he had been drinking decaf for about 4 days while I was there ("I just feel really headachy and low-energy now that you're here") -- neither one of use realized this until later (not that I am sorry now, but at the time it was kind of annoying). So, my "social and physical soup" is more than metaphorical -- it's physical. It's just not actual soup that you eat for lunch.
Wow! I really did not see all that coming at all -- it would be hubris for me to liken that wine marketing and me to Proust and his madeline, but maybe I am a nice matchbox car to it.
Speaking of sunshine, the weather appears to be sunnier today, and I woke up on my own at 8. I had strange unpleasant dreams and woke up twice in the night. Yesterday I spent most of the day on my presentation, but I also took a walk to Chateau de Vincenne. I walked around the castle in the fading Sunday afternoon light. Since the streets here are neither straight nor gridded, I nearly got lost returning until I looked around and found myself exactly one block from the apartment. (which makes me want to talk about attitude, but it will have to wait for another blog. Did I tell you my pen literally exploded on me on the airplane? More on that and mini-earth quakes releasing the pressure and how we think about the world we live in another time.)
[Paris] a few additional matters
At the risk of being too too boring and driving my readers away, I woke up this morning on my own (sans alarm) at 9:30 (10:30 yesterday). I consider this a huge boon. The plan for today is to do nothing. That is, not to stray far from the apartment and to work on my presentation and other projects. One of these projects is to eat that food I bought yesterday.
Speaking of food, I forgot one very important detail of yesterday's adventures: my reunion with the nutella crepe. I bought it from a stand on the right edge of the Seine, perhaps not the most ideal vendor, but they are kind of hard to mess up as long as they are born in the right city.
The other thing exciting to me that you may wish to skip over is my irrational purchase of some wacky blue earings. They hang slightly, and have a six-petalled flower at the top, then a butterfly, and then 2 pearlescent beads. The shop girl said in her very cute accent "funky". I almost never make impulse buys, but maybe the jet lag got to me or something bc this was not only an impulse but also a style totally atypical for me. Anyway, I like them a lot.
In the meantime, I am sitting here with a lovely cup of green tea. The gray diffused light shines thru the windows only just, but I am not cold in my little sleeping outfit. My mother says that I will see her here tomorrow and that pleases me. I haven't decided what to eat for breakfast yet... too many options now.
Speaking of food, I forgot one very important detail of yesterday's adventures: my reunion with the nutella crepe. I bought it from a stand on the right edge of the Seine, perhaps not the most ideal vendor, but they are kind of hard to mess up as long as they are born in the right city.
The other thing exciting to me that you may wish to skip over is my irrational purchase of some wacky blue earings. They hang slightly, and have a six-petalled flower at the top, then a butterfly, and then 2 pearlescent beads. The shop girl said in her very cute accent "funky". I almost never make impulse buys, but maybe the jet lag got to me or something bc this was not only an impulse but also a style totally atypical for me. Anyway, I like them a lot.
In the meantime, I am sitting here with a lovely cup of green tea. The gray diffused light shines thru the windows only just, but I am not cold in my little sleeping outfit. My mother says that I will see her here tomorrow and that pleases me. I haven't decided what to eat for breakfast yet... too many options now.
Saturday, July 09, 2005
First 2 days in Paris
Gosh, I don't really even know where to begin. I'm back here in Paris along with the San Francisco Ballet. You didn't know that I'm also a ballerina? Well, there are many things you don't know about me. I can make a clover shape with my tongue. I can make a variety of animal noises quite convincingly. I can say "Please hold on" and sound exactly like the Muni lady saying it. I make soap and bath salts. I speak French very badly. I have traveled around the world. I have driven across the US several times, tho never actually behind the wheel. I can drive and parallel park better than most. I love driving on San Francisco hills bc I am naturally good at it. I took 3 semesters of calculus post-college for the first time, for fun. I type, read, run and bike very slowly but am adaptable to keyboards in other languages. I draw people pretty well but landscapes badly. I used to sing opera. What? You knew all that about me already and this ballet things still sounds like BS? OK, I lied about being a ballerina. But the fact remains that both me and the SF ballet are here at the same time.
I arrived yesterday after eventless flights and connections. This was a happy change from the last time. The NY-Paris leg was very cold, and I slept badly. I was also disappointed when the girl next to me would not let me rest my feet on hers for warmth. I collected my bags without incident and the RER left shortly after I got on it. Basically, the universe smiled upon me.
I am staying again at the B's Montreuil apartment, but G could not meet me here until 8 PM (I arrived at 11 AM). So, I had arranged to hangout at my friend Jennifer's for the day. As I stepped out of the Metro in her posh neighborhood (the 16th), I was immediately surounded by a marching band advertising something about Brazil and summer. I accepted their flyers (still unread) and marched with them for a block or 2 towards Jennifer's, my welcome parade.
Jennifer's was mayhem. I mean, her place is gorgeous, and she has been painting a lot lately (wonderful!), but the plummer walked in behind me to unclog the shower and the cleaning person (who it turns out had not lost his keys and was unaware that he might have) followed close behind. Jennifer and I went out to lunch at the corner cafe (salade parisienne et un cafe maintenant, si vous plait, pas apre), and then I took the dog for a longish walk. I used the computer and napped for an hour while Jennifer picked up Nell, her daughter (7?). Jennifer is a bonfide goddess for letting me hang there instead of carrying my 60 pounds (no kidding) of stuff around Paris for 8 hours on no sleep.
Nell is super fun and very high energy. But I had to go meet G and his mother for dinner at 8. They are so charming. Over dinner we talked about the recent terrorism in London (horrible! murderers! ...but we are no strangers to protests of the G8 -- just not like that), the failure to EU constitution to pass in France (bc 1-it's too complicated, 2-the EU admin structure is too complicated, and 3-people oppose Chirac, everything he does and all things, always, but G voted for it anyway), and one other super interesting thing that I have temporarily forgotten. (darn it! i should carry a notebook always.)
Then I slept for 10+ hours.
It's been rainy and cold here, no unlike SF in the winter (I wear a sweater!) but it did clear up briefly this afternoon. I bought groceries and then went to the travel agent to get a plane ticket to Budapest. Gitte met me there and we bummed around Paris (!), returned to her studio (room), and then went out to dinner. I really like Paris. Her studio (room) is teeny tiny but super cute, a 7th floor walk-up with outside toilet, but she only pays like 350 euros. She's in the attic, maids' quarters, near the Eiffel Tower (you can see a lot from her window but not the Tower) with old blue wall paper and about 4 square meters. I kind of wanted to eat at home after getting all those lovely groceries (cheese, pate, wine, yum), but she told me she'd seen a Korean restaurant she wanted to try. This was important bc she was a Korean baby adopted by a Danish (not Korean) family, and she has never eaten Korean food. I believe she still hasn't bc this place was very tasty but not very authentic IMHO (more pan north-west asian, but what do I know?). It was, however, very popular with the Parisiens who lined up outside the door.
The sun set over the Seine, and we walked thru Ile de la Cite and Ile St. Louis and watched the lovers kiss and the people line up for the famous ice cream (something with a B???). She was supposed to go to a birthday party for a Portugese girl she knows (who speaks perfect French) at a club, but I think we both headed home once we found a Metro station. Anyway, I am exhausted and it's after midnight, but as usual I am having trouble winding down. Maybe a little wine will help.... This wouldn't be a problem if Eric were here.
I arrived yesterday after eventless flights and connections. This was a happy change from the last time. The NY-Paris leg was very cold, and I slept badly. I was also disappointed when the girl next to me would not let me rest my feet on hers for warmth. I collected my bags without incident and the RER left shortly after I got on it. Basically, the universe smiled upon me.
I am staying again at the B's Montreuil apartment, but G could not meet me here until 8 PM (I arrived at 11 AM). So, I had arranged to hangout at my friend Jennifer's for the day. As I stepped out of the Metro in her posh neighborhood (the 16th), I was immediately surounded by a marching band advertising something about Brazil and summer. I accepted their flyers (still unread) and marched with them for a block or 2 towards Jennifer's, my welcome parade.
Jennifer's was mayhem. I mean, her place is gorgeous, and she has been painting a lot lately (wonderful!), but the plummer walked in behind me to unclog the shower and the cleaning person (who it turns out had not lost his keys and was unaware that he might have) followed close behind. Jennifer and I went out to lunch at the corner cafe (salade parisienne et un cafe maintenant, si vous plait, pas apre), and then I took the dog for a longish walk. I used the computer and napped for an hour while Jennifer picked up Nell, her daughter (7?). Jennifer is a bonfide goddess for letting me hang there instead of carrying my 60 pounds (no kidding) of stuff around Paris for 8 hours on no sleep.
Nell is super fun and very high energy. But I had to go meet G and his mother for dinner at 8. They are so charming. Over dinner we talked about the recent terrorism in London (horrible! murderers! ...but we are no strangers to protests of the G8 -- just not like that), the failure to EU constitution to pass in France (bc 1-it's too complicated, 2-the EU admin structure is too complicated, and 3-people oppose Chirac, everything he does and all things, always, but G voted for it anyway), and one other super interesting thing that I have temporarily forgotten. (darn it! i should carry a notebook always.)
Then I slept for 10+ hours.
It's been rainy and cold here, no unlike SF in the winter (I wear a sweater!) but it did clear up briefly this afternoon. I bought groceries and then went to the travel agent to get a plane ticket to Budapest. Gitte met me there and we bummed around Paris (!), returned to her studio (room), and then went out to dinner. I really like Paris. Her studio (room) is teeny tiny but super cute, a 7th floor walk-up with outside toilet, but she only pays like 350 euros. She's in the attic, maids' quarters, near the Eiffel Tower (you can see a lot from her window but not the Tower) with old blue wall paper and about 4 square meters. I kind of wanted to eat at home after getting all those lovely groceries (cheese, pate, wine, yum), but she told me she'd seen a Korean restaurant she wanted to try. This was important bc she was a Korean baby adopted by a Danish (not Korean) family, and she has never eaten Korean food. I believe she still hasn't bc this place was very tasty but not very authentic IMHO (more pan north-west asian, but what do I know?). It was, however, very popular with the Parisiens who lined up outside the door.
The sun set over the Seine, and we walked thru Ile de la Cite and Ile St. Louis and watched the lovers kiss and the people line up for the famous ice cream (something with a B???). She was supposed to go to a birthday party for a Portugese girl she knows (who speaks perfect French) at a club, but I think we both headed home once we found a Metro station. Anyway, I am exhausted and it's after midnight, but as usual I am having trouble winding down. Maybe a little wine will help.... This wouldn't be a problem if Eric were here.
[sfgate] Why Do You Work So Hard?
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/gate/archive/2005/07/08/notes070805.DTL&nl=fix
Why Do You Work So Hard?
Is it maybe time to quit your safe job and follow your path and infuriate the establishment?
Why Do You Work So Hard?
Is it maybe time to quit your safe job and follow your path and infuriate the establishment?
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